You have used containers at work or during building a home. You love to hunt. You don’t have a cabin on your land. Enter – the connex box. Drop a container on your land, add in a door and some windows and you have a perfect hunting retreat. Whether it is just a basic spot to base camp, or a complete man-cave, conex boxes offer all the flexibility and ruggedness to be a perfect hunting cabin.
You can insulate them, add in heat (or cooling, or both), add in features that make the cabin perfect for you. It might be the ultimate get-away cabin for the guys or it might be a snug, welcoming place to bring your kids and grandchildren to teach them how to hunt.
Here is a series of my new favorite hunting cabin. I got these by email from a colleague. If you know anything more about this cabin, please let me know!
So you want a container. You know it needs to be insulated, but what exactly will fit your needs? Containers come in two styles – standard shipping container and refrigerator (reefer) containers. Here are some general rules of thumb that might be helpful.
1) Refrigerator containers are ideal when you need to store items at a particular temperature year round and you have a power source to run the container. They are considerably more expensive than standard containers, which may play a role in your decision-making.
Inside refrigerator container
2) If you are storing general items, the standard containers are great. Standard containers are used around the world, year round for transporting the vast majority goods manufactured year round.
3) If you are modifying the container, standard containers are much preferred to refrigerator containers. Refrigerator containers have loose insulation between two walls, which makes modifications a huge headache. Also, if you are using the container for living space, you will be very disappointed with a refrigerator container floor. They are grooved to drain any liquid away from items being stored. While that is great if the container isn’t plugged in and you are storing ice cream. It is not as great if you want to live in the container.
Inside used 40'
One other consideration for those who are modifying containers – if you plan on adding electricity or plumbing, you will want to insulate the container once you have added those and done all your modifications.
If you still have questions about which is the right one for you, please call us and we can discuss your needs further.
Standard ISO shipping containers come with two swing doors on one short end of the container. But that doesn’t work for everyone. Today, we are going to cover some different options you have when purchasing containers.
1) Double-door containers. These are containers with standard swing doors on both ends of the container. Because these are not as common and are so useful, they are generally only available as “one-trip” containers, meaning they are manufactured in Asia, make one trip to the US and then sold to you. Since they are one-trip containers, they are freshly painted, have no markings and are a great option. But they are also more expensive.
Open-roll-up door on container
2) Roll-up doors. If you want a used container and need the access, but not the price tag, consider adding a roll-up door on the opposite end. Roll-ups can be added either to the end of the sides of containers to add extra access to the container. The only place we do not recommend putting it is where the original doors are located. Those doors are connected into the corner posts that support the container, so you do not want to mess with that. You can have the door added on before it comes out to you, or use a kit to add the door on yourself. You get the same access at usually half the price.
3) Personnel –doors. So you don’t need a full roll-up, or you just don’t want to deal with bigger doors. Maybe a personnel door is the right option for you. Like roll-up doors, these can be added on before you get it or by a kit where you add on the door yourself. This is great option if you are going to be going in and out of the container often and want to have access just like you would to a building.
Man-door on container
4) Open-side containers. These great containers are only available in 20′ long, one-trip containers. They feature doors that open on the 20′ side of the container. These are a great option for retail containers, industrial applications and so much more. But they also come with a pretty large price tag.
5) Open-top containers. These are a great option if you have to load the container from above. They come with a tarp to function as the roof. So these, are for those people who simply need to have this design, but it is not ideal for the person who wants a nice, basic container.
Containers are so flexible. Even if they don’t come the way you want them, they can easily be changed to fit your needs. We can help you add doors, windows, etc. so that it works for you, just the way you want, or we can help you to do it yourself.
You own a farm. You don’t have enough storage space. You see containers around, but keep asking yourself if they really are as great as they seem. Here are 4 uses for a container on your farm that will last the lifespan of your container.
Containers with a roof between them
1) Container Barn. For this barn, you get two different types of storage – indoor storage inside containers and a covered area between the containers. You place two containers down with space between them. Install a roof between the two containers. You have wind and water tight, insect and rodent-proof storage inside the containers and a covered area for equipment that you want to keep snow and rain from damaging. You can also use the area under the roof for doing work when the weather is not cooperating with you.
2) Hay/feed/manure storage. Store hay bales, feed or manure in storage containers. Since they are wind and water tight as well as insect and rodent proof, they are a great way to keep what you want in inside the container and what you want out can’t get in there.
Great extra storage for equipment, feed, etc.
3) Equipment storage. Do you have some equipment that just doesn’t fit in your other buildings? Put it in a container. You can even add roll-up doors on the container for access from multiple sides of the container.
4) Lean-to. So your container isn’t so new looking any more. You teenager ran some equipment into it and now it isn’t as water-tight as when you got it. But you know there is still some life left in it. Cut and finish off larger openings in the container and set it next to a pole barn or other building. You may have to do a little reinforcing to make sure the roof is still sturdy, but the container can still provide some shaded storage area, without actually leaning into your exising building.
A cut up container provides additional storage attached to existing building
Containers can be moved around so you can keep changing how you use them to fit your changing needs. The 20’s weight 5,000 pounds and the 40’s just under 10,000 pounds, so you can drag them around with your existing equipment if you have some chains to attach to the container. They can easily be modified with extra doors for easier access as well.
Taking a cargo container and turning it into something else – living quarters, emergency relief shelters/centers, storm shelters, etc, is a very popular idea. You can picture what you want it to look like in the end, but how do you get started on your project?
Inside a refrigerator/insulated container
1) Standard or Insulated/refrigerated? Containers come in either standard steel box or insulated/refrigerated box. In order to pick the best one for you, think about what you are going to do with it. If you are going to modify it (add doors, windows, or any other cut outs), then steer clear of the refrigerated/insulated containers. They are difficult to modify due to the loose insulation in between the container walls. Standard steel containers can easily be framed and insulated to provide the necessary insulation once your other modifications are done.
Cargo-worthy containers can handle being stacked
2) Shipping overseas or not? If you are shipping the container overseas, then you will want to plan your modifications accordingly. Containers that are being shipped on cargo ships must be cargo-worthy or sea-worthy, meaning they are structurally sound enough to handle having other container stacked on top of them. If you cut up a container, you reduce the structural integrity of the container, so you want to make sure you are keeping that in mind with your plans, or plan on modifying the container once it arrives at its destination.
Open-top 40' container has a tarp roof
3) Is there a container already designed for your need? There are specialty containers – containers without a top or with removable steel top, 20’ containers with doors that open the full 20’ side of the container or flat-racks, containers that have no long walls or roofs. While these containers are generally more expensive than standard containers, you may find that they fit your need so well; it is worth the extra money. However, be warned that some of these containers are not all that plentiful, so you may also end up paying for shipping long distances.
20' open side container opens on one full 20' side of container
4) How complicated is your design? If you are planning on creating a home or living quarters complete with electric and plumbing, stacked containers or other complications, be sure to get an architect or engineer involved. Even though containers make great building blocks, you are still creating a living space that needs to be safe and up to code. They may up with structural issues you have not considered which can save you headaches down the line.
5) Are you doing to modify the container yourself or have it done? Containers are easy to modify yourself if you have the right tools. Primarily, it requires a cutter and welding tools and the know-how to go with them. Kits are available for adding on basic additions like doors, windows, AC/heat, skylights, etc.
40' office and storage
If you don’t want the hassle of doing the work, have it done for you by a qualified container shop. Then your container can arrive ready to go (or at least part-way there) depending on what your plans entail.
Containers are incredibly flexible building blocks. Let your imagination loose to come up with fun ideas. Share them with us! Or share pictures of projects you have already done to inspire others!
As we have mentioned on this blog before, containers have an endless list of uses for farmers and land-owners. If you haven’t thought it before, do you have any of these needs? Spring is coming and no doubt you’ll be busier than ever. Containers:
Storage in and near containers
Provide insect- and rodent-proof storage for hay and grain
Provide dry storage for equipment
Offer extra storage space without the hassle of getting another building approved for your property
Can be moved from location to location as your needs change
Provide shade for livestock if you cut out holes or sections in the walls
Wind and water tight containers provide a unique solution to keep items free from pests and moisture and those larger nuisances – like trespassers, pesky teenagers, etc. And they are fairly indestructible!
However, if you want to cut them up, they can be great options for outbuildings, hunting cabins, etc without all the fuss of getting permits. Modify them with a kit to add in doors, windows, or pretty much anything else you would want to add to a container.
The most common request I get with containers is to modify them – add doors, windows, partitions, etc; followed closely by people who want to turn them into storm shelters or root cellars by burying them. Now, I have covered these issues in the past, but it never hurts to revisit the basics.
Modified container
Modifications. Containers are great building blocks. You can use them as is, or you can simply cut a few holes and add a few modifications and you can drastically change the purpose of a container. Extra doors and windows are the most common modifications, but some people get very fancy and will build homes out of them.
AC Heat Kit with cage
We can help you with your modifications in two ways: 1) have your container provider modify them for you; or 2) purchase a kit so you can modify it yourself. Modification costs and options will vary depending where in the country you are located. In some locations you can get electric work installed, in others that has to be done after the purchase. Kits are another great for adding doors, windows, AC/heat, skylights, partitions, etc. Specialty kits are available as well if you already have a feature you want added on, but just need a frame to install it.
Container Office
Storm shelters/root cellars. This is a very common use for containers. People either bury them completely in the ground or put them into a hill. There are pros and cons to either option. Not the least of which is if you have a hill handy! Some things to keep in mind when creating your storm shelter/root cellar is 1) to protect the container from the elements, 2) to protect the container structurally,3) to follow local zoning.
Protect your container from the elements. This can be adding a protective moisture barrier and providing proper drainage so your container isn’t sitting in an underground puddle. Also, protect your container structurally. They are designed to bear enormous weight on the four corners of the container, not directly into the wall and roof of the container. Please keep in mind local zoning rules may also dictate how you install your storm shelter/root celler.
For a video of how one person solved these issues, watch this video:
For more detailed information on both of these topics, also see our previous posts:
You know you need a lot of dry, safe storage, but just how much is enough? Ask yourself these questions and you’ll know:
1) How much stuff do you have? Size up what you actually need to store. The most common sizes of containers are :
20’ – 20’ x 8’ x 8’6” – or 1,169 cubic feet
40’ standard – 40’ x 8’ x 8’6” – or 2,385 cubic feet
40’ high cube – 40’ x 8’ x 9’6” – or 2,690 cubic feet
High cubes are nice if you are thinking about living in a container. The internal height of a standard container is 7’8.5”, and a high cube is 8’8.5”. Over time, you will feel that height difference.
Do one of these seem like enough to fit what you have? If not, think about specialty sizes, but keep in mind that the cost on those containers adds up – bigger, more specialized trucks are required to deliver them and they may have to come from further away.
Used 20'
2) Are you going to move the container around? If the answer to this is yes, think small. A 20’ container weighs 5,000 pounds when it is empty, but is still small enough and light enough to be mobile. 20’ containers can be moved on a variety of trucks and even when they are full, can be moved by very heavy duty forklifts.
Once you jump up to a 40’ container, you will need a larger truck for moving it and when they are full, you will need a crane to lift the container on and off the truck. Cranes mean money. So even if you need the space of 40’s, think about 20’s.
3) Are you going to ship the container overseas? If yes, even though the container is moving around, think about the 40’ or the 40’ high cube. Usually there is a minimal extra cost to the larger size and you get to send more per cubic foot. However, the delivery issues listed above still apply. To get around this, most freight forwarders will pick up your container from a depot, bring it to you for loading, you load it while it stays on the truck, then they deliver it to the rail or port to ship.
40' container on a truck
4) Do you have enough space to accommodate the size you want? Containers are delivered on tilt-bed trucks when you ask for ground-level delivery. This means that the truck will back into the spot you want the container. The back of the truck tips down and there is a winch on the truck to lower the container off of the bed of the truck and start setting it on the ground. Then the driver pulls forward and finished setting the container on the ground with the winch. All of this works beautifully – if you have enough space. For a 40’ container, you will generally need 110-120’ of a straight, relatively flat area. For a 20’ – 100’. And don’t forget that the truck has to get to that spot. Make sure you think about how the driver will pull in and pull out of your site. Think about how firm and flat the ground is because delivering a container involves more physics than driving a truck across a ground.
Used 45' container
5) Do you still need more or less space? If you need more space, there are larger containers – 45’, 48’ and 53’ containers. They are not available in all markets and require larger trucks than 40’s, so be prepared for additional costs.
10' with roll door added
If you need less space, containers can be cut down for an additional fee. Generally this process will add an extra $2000 dollars and the containers will still be delivered on the same truck.
If course this won’t answer everyone’s question on sizes. Give us a call if you want to discuss it further!
OK, you’re thinking storage. Over easy, hold the hassles.
What are the options?
There’s that ready-to-assemble shed you saw at Home Depot … or that pole barn kit from something-dot-com … and those portable storage PODS occasionally trucked on and off neighbors’ driveways.
But wait—what about a steel container? If it’s not on your list, maybe it should be. Yeah, we admit we’re biased. But it’s a fact that steel containers have many advantages compared to other storage solutions.
Storage solution
Pros
Cons
Sheds
Prefab kits available locally or online
Buy with installation option or DIY
Usually easy delivery
Height and width options
You can pick options to fit your needs – windows, color, shelving, etc.
DIY may take many weekends
Site prep (crushed stone bed or cement slab)
Many not very sturdy (cheap metal, waferboard, or plastic)
Premium cost for durability
Upkeep/lifespan issues
Often building code issues (may need building permit)
Not moveable
Pole Barns
DIY kits available locally or online
Can customize design & size
Versatile to fit your exact needs
Building costs add up fast
Long lead time
Site prep (may need cement slab)
May be overkill for your needs
Need building permit
Not moveable
PODS
Easy delivery
Ready to store in a warehouse
Rent only (a few suppliers sell, but prices match containers)
Not highly sturdy or durable (plywood walls, translucent plastic tops tacked on top)
Limited sizes (biggest is 16’ x 8’, smaller than the smallest steel container)
Designed to store in a warehouse, not outside
Steel Containers
Come ready to use
Relatively cheap
Delivered exactly where you want it
No building permit issues
Many customization options (paint, doors, windows, vents, lights, shelving, etc.)
Big enough for cars, boats, contents of 3-bedroom house
Moveable
Use for storage or for housing
Fixed height and width (8’ wide x 20’ or 40’ long)
Costs higher in some locations (usually due to delivery more than anything else)
Some zoning issues
You know your storage situation best, but hopefully this table can help if you were on the fence about which style to go with. If you want more information on containers, please visit our website (www.SuperCubes.com) or call us (877-374-5452)!
Roof over two new containers, similiar to James' suggested kit (in comments below).
