Exploded view of container

Basic Frame

Design - Containers are designed to filled, then stacked on ships, then removed.  Containers hold all their weight in the floor of the container and the four corner posts.  Those corner posts are what the cranes connect to when moving full containers around.  These corner posts are slightly higher than the roof and slightly lower than the floor of the container.

What this means for you – When you stack containers, make sure that you always have corner posts resting on corner posts.  If you can’t do this, make sure those corner posts have extra support.  Also, do not remove these corner posts unless you have designed to support the container in another way.

Corrugated walls and roof

Walls and Roofs

Design – Containers are made of corrugated steel.  The walls and roofs are made of the same material.  The walls support the roof of the container.

What this means for you – You can cut holes for doors and windows in the side of containers.  But just make sure you don’t remove the whole side of a container without providing support for the roof.  Also, the roof is not strong enough to handle heavy loads.  If you are planning on burying the container or making a balcony on top of a container, make sure you create a platform that distributes the weight back to the four corner posts.

Container doors

Doors

Design – Container doors are attached to corner posts.

What this means to you – They work well they way they are designed.  If you want a different type of entry, add extra doors on the other 3 sides of the container.

Insulation

Design – Standard containers are made of corten steel and are not insulated.  Refrigerator containers are steel containers with insulation and an interior wall added onto the container.  The insulation used is loose between the walls.  Also, refrigerated/insulated containers are generally sold with cooling units still included.

Inside refrigerated container

What this means to you – If you are looking for a container that is insulated, the first big question to ask yourself is if you are going to modify the container further.  If you are, the standard containers will be much easier to work with.  Once you cut into an insulated container, you will have a mess on your hands and the insulation will be reduced.  Instead, go with a standard container, make your modifications to suit your needs and then frame the container like you would a traditional home.  You will lose the same amount of container width as you would with a refrigerated container, but will skip a large headache.

For more questions on do-it-yourself modifications, please call us!

1)      How much stuff do you have? Size up what you actually need to store.  The most common sizes of containers are :

20’ – 20’ x 8’ x 8’6” – or 1,169 cubic feet
40’ standard – 40’ x 8’ x 8’6” – or 2,385 cubic feet
40’ high cube – 40’ x 8’ x 9’6” – or 2,690 cubic feet

High cubes are nice if you are thinking about living in a container.  The internal height of a standard container is 7’8.5”, and a high cube is 8’8.5”.  Over time, you will feel that height difference.

Do one of these seem like enough to fit what you have?  If not, think about specialty sizes, but keep in mind that the cost on those containers adds up – bigger, more specialized trucks are required to deliver them and they may have to come from further away.

Used 20'

2)      Are you going to move the container around? If the answer to this is yes, think small.  A 20’ container weighs 5,000 pounds when it is empty, but is still small enough and light enough to be mobile.  20’ containers can be moved on a variety of trucks and even when they are full, can be moved by very heavy duty forklifts.

Once you jump up to a 40’ container, you will need a larger truck for moving it and when they are full, you will need a crane to lift the container on and off the truck.  Cranes mean money.  So even if you need the space of 40’s, think about 20’s.

3)       Are you going to ship the container overseas? If yes, even though the container is moving around, think about the 40’ or the 40’ high cube.  Usually there is a minimal extra cost to the larger size and you get to send more per cubic foot.  However, the delivery issues listed above still apply.  To get around this, most freight forwarders will pick up your container from a depot, bring it to you for loading, you load it while it stays on the truck, then they deliver it to the rail or port to ship.

40' container on a truck

4)      Do you have enough space to accommodate the size you want? Containers are delivered on tilt-bed trucks when you ask for ground-level delivery.  This means that the truck will back into the spot you want the container.  The back of the truck tips down and there is a winch on the truck to lower the container off of the bed of the truck and start setting it on the ground.  Then the driver pulls forward and finished setting the container on the ground with the winch.  All of this works beautifully – if you have enough space.  For a 40’ container, you will generally need 110-120’ of a straight, relatively flat area.  For a 20’ – 100’.  And don’t forget that the truck has to get to that spot.  Make sure you think about how the driver will pull in and pull out of your site.  Think about how firm and flat the ground is because delivering a container involves more physics than driving a truck across a ground.

Used 45' container

5)      Do you still need more or less space? If you need more space, there are larger containers – 45’, 48’ and 53’ containers.  They are not available in all markets and require larger trucks than 40’s, so be prepared for additional costs.

10' with roll door added

If you need less space, containers can be cut down for an additional fee.  Generally this process will add an extra $2000 dollars and the containers will still be delivered on the same truck.

If course this won’t answer everyone’s question on sizes.  Give us a call if you want to discuss it further!

1)       Zoning. Are there any state, county, or city zoning laws that would restrict where or how you bury a container?  This may vary depending on where you are, what the ground is like in your area, and how far into the ground you want to go. You can go the range from buried underground, nestled into a hill or embedding the container just far enough into the ground to be secure. Either way, zoning rules may apply. Start with a quick search of your city and county websites, then follow up with phone calls to offices listed on the sites. Take notes on the calls—and as decisions are made, “get it in writing” if you can.

2)      Placement. Is your plan to bury the container completely? Just far enough that a tornado won’t send it to Oz? In working out placement details, be sure to think through how you will use your container. If it will be a root cellar, will you build your container into a hill with steps and a door? If it will be an underground storm shelter, how will you provide access in and out? Keep in mind that the more deeply a container is buried, the greater the planning.

3)      Structure. If you will bury your container, even partially, how will you ensure that it withstands the pressure of earth? Containers were made not to be buried, but to be stacked on a ship. Only the four corner posts of a container are load bearing, with the sides strong enough to support only the roof. You’ll need to plan on building a retaining wall around the container location. Be sure to include drainage so that heavy rains won’t leave your container submerged in water. If your cellar or shelter calls for completely covering your container’s roof, you’ll also need to build a platform to push all the weight to the 4 corner posts (products are on the market to do this). Never simply bury a container or it will collapse.

4)      Moisture. Containers are wind and water tight, but think about how you will prep your buried container against earthen moisture. The container floor has treated plywood on steel cross-members. You will want to seal under the floor—and probably will want to set it on a cement slab foundation. In addition, you will need to seal your container with roofing tar, plastic tarps, or truck bedliners (such as RhinoLinings). A little research will help you find the most cost-effective solution for your container use and location.

5)      Ventilation. If you’re turning your container into a storm shelter, you’ll want to make sure it will have good ventilation and air flow for the people who will use it. You’ll also want to add an extra door—ideally a man-door with a panic bar so it can be opened safely from inside and so that no one can be accidentally locked in.

For an example of one being installed, see this video.  They approached some of the issues listed above a little differently, but it still provides some great ideas.

Once you have your container cellar or shelter in place, the rest is pretty easy—making sure your root cellar has the right humidity level for vegetables or that your shelter is outfitted to work well as a storm refuge. If you’re just beginning to start your cellar or shelter project, please keep in mind that SuperCubes offers a variety of kits to help you modify your container—and we’re always happy to provide friendly advice as well.

Container Office

You’ve got the plan in your head – get a container, add doors, windows, or other simple improvements, and then you have your container office, shop or cabin.  You’re handy, know your way around a do-it-yourself project, but where to start?

Inside modified container part 1

No need to reinvent the wheel—container modification kits will come with everything you need to install a door, window, partition, AC, insulation or even a sky light.  See the pictures below for ideas.    You provide only the cutting and welding skills.

1)      You configure the kits that suit your plans. The basics include a lockbox, man-door (steel, 3 feet wide), a roll-up door (6’, 7’ or 8’ wide), windows, insulation, AC with a cage, etc.  Order them from your friendly container store (Super Cubes has all the kits and free DIY support).

Inside modified container part 2

2)      When the kit arrives, it will include the parts you ordered along with installation frames (not needed for insulation or partitions).

3)     Cut a hole in the container to the size noted in the instructions. (Tip: Borrow or rent a plasma cutter, which whirs though steel using only air and electricity.)

Instant shelving organizes a container quickly

4)     Weld in the frame, which fits neatly to the container’s corrugated steel.

5)      Install the door, window, skylight, or whatever.

Kits take all the guesswork out of framing a wind- and water-tight add-on into your container. Container kits also solve problems you might not have considered.

Roll-up door with lockbox

For example, the AC kit comes with a frame, air conditioner, and a cage to weld over the AC so that no one could pull it out and potentially gain access to your container.

Roof between containers

With kits providing everything you need, you can have exactly the container office, shop, or cabin you imagine—foolproof and frustration free.

Office Container

Huts

A hut is your basic shack in the woods (or your backyard) for keeping dry and sacking out on a cot. It won’t be pretty, but it will do the job. Just paint it with SuperTherm, an insulating ceramic paint, add a door, and a window or two. You can go unplugged or rig basic electrical (anything from an extension cord if you are on the grid to a small generator if you are more remotely located).

Cabins

Here’s where your container becomes a livable dwelling. Besides the hut-like basics, a container cabin will have more creature comforts—larger windows, maybe better electricity, and more insulation and an HVAC system for extra comfort (steel containers do conduct heat and cold). It’s a do-it-yourself project to put up rigid-foam insulation and paneling as well as partitions for rooms. As with any cabin, you can put in plumbing. Beyond that, it’s all about adding amenities (from awnings to skylights and decks) to give your hunting/lake/ski cabin good looks and charm.

Offices

A container-based office, work shed, or studio can be a modified cabin, designed around the work you do. But often container offices mean mobile work space. Construction trailers, sales offices, security offices, portable classrooms, temporary medical clinics, or event offices are just a few of the many possibilities. These can be delivered already customized to suit your needs, making these the most hassle-free container conversion projects.

Homes

Container housing has caught on for many reasons. Containers make strong, secure, indestructible building blocks for full-featured houses. Container homes are a green and efficient housing choice, and they lend themselves to very cool living spaces.

Container housing can be quicker than traditional building. But keep in mind that turning a container into a full-featured home is still about building a house, with many of the same costs. If you’re looking for a full-featured home that will look great and blend in with your neighbors’, you’ll need both an architect and engineer. You’ll need proper footings and foundation, as well as full plumbing and electrical, flooring, HVAC, and all the rest.  Building a container home is going to cost at least as much as a traditional home, so this is generally not a decision based on money, but rather other factors.

You’ll also need to contend with layout and design issues that may quickly get structural, especially if you’re combining two or more containers. Containers aren’t designed to be chopped apart. You may need to add support beams to maintain structural integrity (and sometimes jams, headers, and sill posts as well).

The good news is at the end of the day, you’ll have a truly unusual dream home that’s as strong, secure, and eco-friendly as any house around. It will be impervious to fire and if properly anchored, able to withstand earthquakes and hurricanes. Nothing against ordinary houses, but its hard to say any of that about the rambler down the street.

What are the options?

There’s that ready-to-assemble shed you saw at Home Depot … or that pole barn kit from something-dot-com … and those portable storage PODS occasionally trucked on and off neighbors’ driveways.

But wait—what about a steel container? If it’s not on your list, maybe it should be. Yeah, we admit we’re biased. But it’s a fact that steel containers have many advantages compared to other storage solutions.

You know your storage situation best, but hopefully this table can help if you were on the fence about which style to go with.  If you want more information on containers, please visit our website (www.SuperCubes.com) or call us (877-374-5452)!

Boats, waterskis, jetskis, skis, snowshoes snowmobile storage

You have all these things to enjoy the outdoors, but want to store them away from the elements. Containers are a great way to lock up your more expensive equipment. Containers are wind and water tight, insect and rodent proof, so the elements (and its critters) won’t get at your equipment.

Hunting lodges

Is your land a bit more rustic? Is a cabin too cushy for your hunting with the guys? A container can be a great solution for you too. We set a container on your land. During hunting season, you have a safe, dry space to stay or even store your food and gear that will stay protected while you get out and hunt. If the weather turns, you have a big enough space to accommodate the whole crew that is dry, yet right there on your land. If you want to spruce it up a bit, you can always add in some windows, insulation, additional doors, even electricity to run off of a generator.

Safety

As much as you may love your cabin or hunting land, you can’t be there all the time. Let a container be your safe for everything you want locked up tightly in your absence.

Do you let friends and family use the cabin, but would rather they didn’t use all of your things? Lock them in the container. You know everything will stay safe and sound for you to enjoy when you come up to the cabin next.

Add a lock-box, or a metal box that protects your padlock, and you have peace of mind when you are home that everything is safe and sound on your land.

And if you klutzy Uncle Fred wants to borrow your cabin, you can always let him use the cabin, but forget to give him the keys to the container. Your boat will thank you.